Archive for December, 2010
Alternative Energy Solutions for the Home

The new trend nowadays for homes is to install alternative energy solutions inside it, from the wind turbines producing electricity and the solar collection cells that include hydrogen cells. This is a new technology that continues in the twenty first century and to be continued. There is a lot of need to become energy independent and therefore, households need to rely less on energy derived from fossil fuels and be able to produce alternative energy. Unstable nations are usually the ones who supply fossil fuels; therefore, there is the constant need to become off grid and thus, become independent from this type of production. The fossil fuel industry is maintained by corporation interests, giant oil company directors and some of them are even involved in background conspiracy, therefore creating a vicious circle which cannot give up relying on fossil fuel. There is therefore, a constant pressure on the fossil fuel industry and many alternative energies are thus, overlooked.
However, as many specialists in the field point out, there is the need to develop the distributed generation of alternative energies. We need to restructure the electricity market and do even more research on transmission, distribution infrastructure and diversify the existing means of producing market. Power providers can diversify their businesses by earning back lost revenues through micro generation in the household energy. Therefore, UK analysts have conducted some research and have found out that there are more and more people trying to adopt alternative energies to suit ever-growing energy demands. This trend into adopting alternative energies is encouraged by government recommendation concerning environmental degradation; there is the desire to become energy independent and this is encouraged at all costs. It is therefore, possible to produce all the energy needed in a household by just using alternative energies, such as solar and wind energies combined. These solutions, the solar panels as well as the wind turbines, are likely to become the next big thing in energy suppliers industry.
Alternative energy companies have presumed until now that since traditional prices for energy have remained at the same levels for some time now, it is then possible for micro generation to come in and institute its own prices. After all, if you plan to produce energy at home then through the solar panels and wind turbines, you will only consume what you produce. Therefore, this will make the alternative market very lucrative and thus, a competitor for the traditional energy market.
Current analyses have pointed out that companies should institute techniques through which to encourage the potential of alternative. By opening up the market, success is more likely to be established. For instance, electrical companies in Great Britain have been researching and discovering idea on how to facilitate the wide scale use of geothermal energy; these companies though that geothermal energy could become the energy norm in the future therefore, they were willing to invest in this idea. Through constant effort, one day, alternative energies will become the norm. Another analysis has pointed out that heating through solar energy can be another lucrative alternative to implement in the future. While initially expensive to install such as system, it would become profitable for the long run to use this alternative in the long term, because the benefits obtained from the technology would eventually outweigh the costs. Therefore, one should pay careful attention before installing such a system and especially, make sure they are really eager to pursue that step and not another.
While solar powers has not yet become cost effective to install at larger scales, for instance in corporations, it has become nonetheless an idea worth considering. There are a lot of downfalls to it nonetheless, because especially at a wider scale, one would have to modify a lot of plumbing systems to implement the foundation for the solar energy heating system. In the home however, individual users can reduce the costs for the long run by constantly saving up money from the bills they pay for energy. Therefore, even though the prices for installing alternative energies remain high, the idea will surely catch on in the future.
Hybrid Water Power Project-Hybrid Water Power Scam

The whole planet is dealing with lack of power and pollution. But year by year, additional and additional autos are running on the roads. They’re producing polluted air and consuming many power. And the automobile people are faced with higher and greater oil cost. Absolutely nothing is Okay. How can we alter this type of scenario? We nonetheless need to use cars, mainly because autos short the way and save time. How about making use of a clean and cheap energy to drive the car? A century in the past, people today employed h2o since the energy to drive machine, such as steam powered engines. So use h2o like a energy just isn’t a miracle. Right now what I wish to recommend is hybrid power water. Perhaps, you might be pondering that it will be complicated and useless to use h2o because the power. Now, examine on and you’ll find it is really basic.
Grab A Copy Click Here
Firstly, acquire a professionally-designed manual on h2o converting. As we know, we can also effortlessly study the data about it on the web.
Secondly, visit a hardware retailer to buy a generator parts. Then you may do it yourself to develop a water converting device. In most hardware shops, you’ll be able to get what you should construct a generator. Apart from, you are able to adhere to the manual you’ve got bought step by step to create a generator which suits your engine.
After you build the generator, install the generator into your engine and then fill the generator with water by subsequent the manual step by step. Now it is prepared to use the h2o since the energy of your car.
Hybrid Energy H2o can preserve your challenging earned money, save power and save the only planet. Think or not, hybrid power h2o is significantly gentler in your engine and raises your engine lifespan by 50%, and intensifies you car mileage as much as 30%. Arrive on, analysis it on the web you’ll obtain far more. Grab A Copy Click Here
New Report “energy Efficient Buildings” Added In Visionshopsters

Efficient energy use means simply using less energy to provide the same level of service. An example would be insulating a building to use less heating and cooling energy to achieve the same temperature. Another example is installing fluorescent lights and/or skylights instead of incandescent lights to attain the same level of illumination. Efficient energy use is achieved primarily by means of a more efficient technology or process rather than by changes in individual behavior.
A building’s location and surroundings play a key role in regulating its temperature and illumination. For example, trees, landscaping, and hills can provide shade and block wind. In cooler climates, designing buildings with an east-west orientation to increase the number of south-facing windows minimizes energy use, by maximizing passive solar heating. Tight building design, including energy-efficient windows, well-sealed doors, and additional thermal insulation of walls, basement slabs, and foundations can reduce heat loss by 25 to 50%.
Modern building practices often demonstrate little regard for energy efficiency or the larger economic, environmental or social impacts of the built environment. Green building attempts to break with these practices. Early efforts to bring change to the building sector in the 1960s through the 1980s generally focused on single issues such as energy efficiency and conservation of natural resources. Green building now integrates a wide range of building design, construction, and operation and maintenance practices to provide healthier living and working environments and minimize environmental impacts. Crucial to the success of green building has been the application of integrated design principles, a whole-building-systems approach, which brings together the key stakeholders and design professionals as a core team to work collaboratively from the early planning stages through to the building’s occupation.
Table Of Contents :
Executive Summary 5
What is Energy Efficiency? 7
Overview 7
Energy Efficient Appliances 9
Energy Efficient Industries 9
Energy Efficient Vehicles 10
Energy Efficiency and Sustainable Energy 11
Rebound Effect and Energy Efficiency 13
Introduction to Energy Efficient Buildings 14
Overview 14
Features of a Green Building 15
How widespread is the Concept of Green Buildings 16
Negative Environmental Impacts of Current Building Practices 17
Benefits of Green Building 19
Some Green Building Rating Systems 21
GHG Emissions and Green Buildings 22
AIA 2030 Challenge 23
Elements of an Energy Efficient Building 24
Overview 24
Basic Principles of an Energy Efficient Building 24
Market Developments 26
Looking at the Thermal Envelope 27
Wall and Roof Assemblies 27
Insulation 28
Windows 30
Weatherstripping and Caulking 31
Controlled Ventilation 33
Heating and Cooling Systems 34
Looking at Energy-Efficient Appliances 35
Advantages and Disadvantages of Energy Efficient Buildings 37
Building and Buying an Energy Efficient Home 38
Energy Flows in a Building 40
Standards of Eco Living 42
Passive House Concept 42
Minergie House Concept 42
Zero Energy House Concept 43
Energy Plus House Concept 43
Design Components 44
Financial Considerations of EEBs 46
Overview 46
Significance of Energy Cost 47
Cost of Achieving Energy Efficiency 48
Major Trends 51
Patterns in Building Stock 51
Consumer and Demographic Trends 52
Trends in Energy Demand in the built Environment and Supply 52
Government Trends 53
Scarcity of Resources 54
Industrial/Commercial Trends 54
Forces Driving EEBs 56
Market Forces 56
Government Regulations and Programs 57
Challenges to Energy Efficient Buildings 59
Challenges to Economic Pricing of Energy 59
Factors such as Environment, Energy Security, Social Policy and Employment 59
Technical Skills 60
Doubts About Energy Consumption and Conservation 61
Lack of Confidence in New Technologies 61
Lack of Knowledge on Expenditure and Benefit 62
Availability of Capital 62
Separate Capital and Operating Budgets 63
Split Incentives 63
Risks and Uncertainties 65
Lack of Coordination and Consistency in Government Policies 65
Lack of Research Investments 66
Technological Challenges 66
Institutional Challenges 67
Overall Energy Consumption by Buildings 68
Energy Use in Buildings 74
Requirement of a Supportive Regulative Framework 77
Energy Policy Act of 2005 and Energy Efficient Buildings 81
Overview 81
Qualification Factors 81
Tax Deduction 82
Certification Requirements 82
Calculating of Design Methods and Technologies 82
Determining Building Compliance 83
Interim Rules for Lighting Projects 84
Overview of the Program 85
Opportunities for Energy and Cost Savings 85
Zero Energy Goals 86
Tax Incentives for Energy Efficiency 87
Tax Incentives for Commercial Buildings 88
Tax Incentives for Residential Buildings 89
Buildings Efficiency and Economic Recovery 89
Building America Program 91
Overview of the Program 91
Systems Engineering Approach 92
Methodology 94
Results 95
Benefits for the Buyer & Homeowners 95
Benefits for Buyers 95
Benefits for the Homeowners 96
Benefits for the Country 97
Energy Star Program 98
Obamas New Energy Efficiency Efforts 100
Energy Efficient Buildings in Europe 104
Energy in the EU 104
Energy Efficiency in Buildings in Europe 107
Energy Efficiency in EU 107
Overview 107
Policy Developments 108
Regulations in Relation to Buildings 110
Energy Performance of Buildings 110
Directive on the Energy Performance of Buildings 112
Directive 2004/8/EC on the Promotion of Cogeneration 117
Program for EU Member States related to Buildings 118
Energy Services to Buildings 118
Development of the EU Framework 120
Improving Energy Efficiency of Buildings in EU Member States 121
Energy Efficiency Regulations 122
Existing National Programs 122
Directive on Energy Performance of Buildings 126
Major Players 127
Governments 128
The European Union 129
International Energy Agency 130
European Energy Charter 131
European Committee for Standardization 131
Energie-Cits 131
European Network of Buildings Research Institutes 132
European Investment Bank 133
European Bank for Reconstruction and Development 133
Future 134
Country Analysis 136
China 136
Hong Kong 138
India 140
Japan 141
Malaysia 143
Philippines 145
Singapore 146
South Korea 147
Taiwan 149
Thailand 151
Case Studies 154
Masdar City, Dubai 154
Energy-Efficient Building Designing of the Louisiana Capitol Complex 157
Energy Efficient Building Programs in Hawaii 159
Enermodal Engineerings Building 161
Major Players 164
Actelios 164
Cemex 165
DuPont 166
EDF 167
Enermodal Engineering 168
Honeywell 169
Lafarge 170
Philips 171
TEPCO 172
Appendix 174
Glossary 179
About the Publisher 192
List of Figures and Tables
Tables
Figure 1: Possible Areas of Air Leakage 32
Figure 2: Heat Recovery Ventilation 34
Figure 3: Energy Flows within a Building 41
Figure 4: Design Impacts on Energy Use 45
Figure 5: Energy and Total Costs by Quality of Fittings 48
Figure 6: Costing Green: A Comprehensive Cost Database and Budgeting Methodology 49
Figure 7: Best and Worst Case Projections of Site Energy Demand 69
Figure 8: Existing Building Floor Space 70
Figure 9: Building Energy Projection by Region 71
Figure 10: Site Energy Sources 72
Figure 11: Primary Energy 72
Figure 12: Life Cycle Energy Use 73
Figure 13: Complex Value Chain 75
Figure 14: Three Approaches in a Supportive Framework 78
Figure 15: Sources of Environmental Impacts in Each Phase of the Building Life Cycle 79
Figure 16: Energy Demand in the EU 105
Figure 17: Compliance Framework for Hong Kong Building Energy Standards 139
Figure 18: Distribution of Energy Demand of Various Buildings Components 174
Figure 19: Most Cost-effective Method for Lowering GHG Emissions 175
Figure 20: Building Energy End Use Consumption 176
Figure 21:Integrated Building Systems: Active Shading + Dimmable Lighting = Load Management Strategy 178
Tables
Table 1: Potential National Lighting Savings 177
To know more about this report & to buy a copy please visit :
http://www.visionshopsters.com/product/1073/Energy-Efficient-Buildings.html
Contact us:
Visionshopsters
Ph : 91-22-40583000
Emailid: marketing@visionshopsters.com
Website : www.visionshopsters.com
Solar Panel Systems, Energy Efficiency and Your Home

Reducing your Electric Bill with a Solar Panel System & Renewable Energy
Using a solar panel, wind turbine or other renewable energy system to produce electricity and reduce your electric bill can be a sound long-term investment. Depending on the type of technology, you can expect a full return on your investment within 3 to 18 years. With financial or tax rebates from your utility company or state and national government, the payback period on your investment can be cut in half.
However, the very first step to considering any renewable energy system must be how to make your home or business more energy efficient. Generally, the basic rule is that for every you spend on making your location more energy efficient, you save to on the cost of the solar panel or wind turbine energy system. Let’s go over some basic ways you can make your home more energy efficient.
Making Your Home Energy Efficient
One of the easiest things that you can do to reduce your electrical consumption is change out your regular incandescent light bulbs to compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs). CFLs use 65 to 75% less energy than a normal light bulb that produces the same amount of light. By replacing a normal 100 watt incandescent light bulb with a 32 watt CFL, you will save to in electricity costs over the lifetime of that bulb (10,000 hours). Now imagine how much you would save if you changed out all of your light bulbs to CFLs!
The technology for these bulbs has quickly evolved and improved in the last few years, while the cost has come down dramatically. You’ll find that there are CFLs that will now fit most light fixtures and lighting needs-there are even dimmable CFLs!. Head out to your local department or hardware store and buy CFLs for as many of your light fixtures as possible. The investment is well worth it.
Another alternative to traditional lights are tubular skylights . Tubular skylights look a little like shiny stove pipes that start with a transparent dome on top of the roof and come down into some room for day lighting. We frequently see customers using tubular skylights to bring daylight into hallways and closets. The light is, of course, entirely natural and in some installations can provide as much illumination as a 100-Watt incandescent light bulb.
Energy Star and EnergyGuide
One of the biggest consumers of electricity in most households is the refrigerator. In most households, refrigeration is the number one electricity consumer after any electricity-based heating or cooling systems. If your refrigerator is over 10 years old, chances are it’s electrically very inefficient. Consider replacing your current refrigerator with one that has a high Energy Star rating. Remember that just because a refrigerator may have earned the Energy Star label doesn’t mean it’s the most efficient model available-it only means that its efficiency exceeds the federally mandated efficiency standard by at least 15%. You can even do much of your investigation online at the Energy Star website. There you can search for the brand, type and size of refrigerator you want and sort by energy efficiency. When you shop in stores, consult the yellow EnergyGuide tags that are attached to all new refrigerators (and many other appliances). EnergyGuide is a different government program from Energy Star that offers information about annual energy consumption and shows you where each model lands in a comparison with similar models. For maximum energy savings, select the model that’s a leader in efficiency in its class.
Ghost Loads
Also known as “phantom loads”, ghost loads are the sneaky devices that constantly consume small amounts of electricity 24 hours a day-even when they’re not actually doing anything useful. While each device by itself may not consume much electricity, the combination of all of them within your household may easily consume the equivalent of two or three 60-Watt incandescent light bulbs left on all day and all night. Over the course of a single year this adds up to over 1 Megawatt-hour-in other words, enough electricity to power an entire energy-efficient house for 2 to 3 months!
What are these mysterious ghost loads? The most common examples are the “power brick” adapters, or power supplies, that charge or operate cell phones, laptop computers, cordless drills, answering machines, radios, inkjet printers, and many other household devices. They’re actually small transformers, turning AC electricity from the wall outlet into DC electricity for use by the device. While any one of these devices may only consume a small amount of power (e.g., 3-20 watts), a dozen or so of them, running simultaneously and continuously, consume a significant amount of electricity. What’s worse is that even when you’re not charging your cell phone or the battery for your cordless drill, that AC adapter may continue to consume power just because it’s plugged into the wall. Other well-disguised ghost loads are those devices which have the “instant on” feature, such as most modern television sets, VCRs, DVD players, many radios and even many computers. While all of these devices are supposedly turned off, they are actually consuming anywhere from 3 to 20 watts continuously-just to stay ready for you to use them.
How can you decrease the consumption of energy by these parasitic loads? One of the simplest solutions is to simply plug these devices into a power strip which has an off/on switch. When you are done using the devices and shut them off normally, then just hit the off switch on the power strip. Many people make it part of their nightly routine to shut off these power strips just before they go to bed. For AC power adapters that you use at night, like for charging a cell phone, put those on a separate power strip that you turn off during the day when you take your phone with you. Simple solutions like these could reduce your ghost electric loads by as much as 80%. In real-dollars terms, this means saving upwards of 0 per year in electricity costs, depending on your local electric utility rates and how dedicated you are to reducing your ghost loads.
A Special Note for People Who are Planning to Live Off-grid
If you’re planning to use an off-grid solar panel, wind turbine or hydro electric system and plan to have a 12 or 24 volt battery bank, you will often be able to find devices and appliances that work directly with these DC voltages. The benefit to using the devices is that they will not need an AC power adapter which needlessly consumes electricity whether or not the device in use. After all, what an AC adapter plug does is convert normal AC household electricity to DC type of electricity to power the device, and it rarely does that conversion efficiently.
Energy Efficient Cooling
During the summer (and in warmer climates) air conditioning is frequently the largest consumer of electricity. An inexpensive way to reduce the demand on your air conditioner is to keep your attic cooler with a solar attic fan. Powered by a built-in solar panel, solar attic fans turn on when your attic warms up during the day. By venting the hot air out of your attic all day long, the floors below stay cooler and as a result your air conditioner runs significantly less.
Solar attic fans can be installed by good do-it-yourselfers or carpenters. They require no wiring. A hole needs to be cut in the roof, the attic fan is slipped in and the edges are sealed up well with roof caulking. The solar panel built into the fan unit is designed to last at least 25 years. A solar attic fan is another wise investment that pays for itself very quickly.
For people who live in zones that are relatively dry but hot, evaporative coolers (also known as swamp coolers) are a cost effective and energy efficient alternative to traditional air conditioners. Evaporative coolers use about 25% the energy an air conditioner would need. Unfortunately, most people live in climates that when it’s hot it is also relatively humid. In these conditions evaporative coolers won’t work effectively.
Another simple and green method for reducing your home’s air conditioning costs is to plant deciduous trees whose leaves will shade your home in the summer time and shed its leaves for more sunlight in the winter time. By shading your home it heats up less, and therefore requires less cooling by an air conditioner. Planting a tree in this scenario has double the environmental impact, you’re reducing greenhouse gases by both using less electricity and because the tree itself absorbs carbon dioxide.
Energy Efficiency and Household Appliances
Many other appliances throughout your household will have a newer and significantly more energy efficient version available. Here is a short list of other appliances you should consider replacing with higher efficiency versions: water heating tanks, air conditioners, dehumidifiers, dishwashers, telephones, VCRs and DVDs, ceiling fans, fax machines, computers and copiers. To see which brands and models have Energy Star certification and to figure which ones of those are the most efficient, visit Energy Star’s website: www.EnergyStar.gov. To find out how much power your appliances are really consuming, invest in an inexpensive power meter like the Kill-A-Watt meter.
For many households the biggest bill is the heating bill. Probably the quickest, least expensive and easiest way to reduce your heating bill is to buy a programmable thermostat. You can set these thermostats to turn off the heat automatically when you’re not home and turn it on just before you arrive. You will easily recoup your small investment in the new thermostat within one winter by running your heating system less. See your local hardware store or HVAC company for pricing and availability of different models.
Another basic step to reducing your home heating bill is sealing air leaks and adding insulation. According to Energy Star sealing air leaks and adding insulation can reduce your heating bill by as much as 10%. For homes with attics, one of the easiest and most effective places to put down insulation is in the attic. Visit your local home improvement store to find out how much insulation in different areas of the home is recommended for your region.
In the last few years, the use of solar air heating systems has become more popular. Mounted on an exterior, southern-facing wall or on the roof, solar air heating collectors can reduce a home’s or business’ annual heating costs by as much as 30%. Costing far less than a new conventional heating system, solar air heating systems usually pay for themselves in 3-6 years. They’ll typically last for 18 to 35 years and require minimal maintenance. Working in conjunction with your existing heating system, the solar air heating system simply reduces your heating demand whenever you have even partial sunlight.
There are two basic flavors of solar air heating systems. There are ones that heat up fresh outdoor air and blow it into your home or business. The there are ones that take the air from inside your building boosts up the temperature by another 50 to 90 degrees fahrenheit and blows it back in (known as recirculating air solar heating systems). Newer homes and buildings which tend to be tightly sealed and have stale winter air will benefit doubly from the fresh air solar heaters. Older homes tend to be inherently draftier and experience full air exchanges with the outdoors a few times a day. These homes will benefit more from the solar air heating systems that recirculate the indoor air and boost it up in temperature. Typically, one 4×8 foot solar air collector is recommended per 750 to 1000 square feet of home space.
Water Heating Efficiency
More efficient models of domestic hot water heaters have also become available in the last several years. If you have an old hot water heater, chances are that it was not designed with efficiency in mind. Again, check out Energy Star’s website to find out which boilers are the most efficient.
Another good alternative to the traditional hot water heating tanks are instantaneous hot water heaters. These systems heat the water only when its being used. Normal water heating systems used in much of North America maintain a large tank of hot water to be used only a few times a day. To keep the water hot and ready at a moment’s notice these traditional hot water heating tanks consume energy throughout the entire day, whether you need it or not. Instantaneous water heaters only consume energy the moment you need the hot water, saving the typical household 30 to 50% of the cost of hot water heating. You can find instantaneous water heaters that use natural gas, propane and electricity from a variety of manufacturers.
Solar Water Heating Provides You the Best Return on Your Investment
The energy (natural gas, propane, electricity, etc) needed for hot water heating can be reduced by 60 to 90% by using a solar water heating system to pre-heat water before it enters your existing traditional water heater. Remarkably effective and efficient, even in northern climates, solar water heating technologies have matured significantly in the past 30 years. Designed to easily last 30 years or more with minimum maintenance, typically solar water heating system will pay for itself in its first 3-7 years of use. Solar water heating systems heat your home’s water with collectors that are usually placed on the roof of the home. The hot water produced is stored in an insulated tank until your home is ready to use it. Your traditional hot water will only kick on to heat up the water when the water temperature is not quite high enough. Solar water heating systems can be installed by advanced do-it-yourselfers, but it is recommended that a licensed plumber or installer review or do the more complicated plumbing.
Energy Efficiency – Your First Step Towards Clean Energy and Energy Independence
The first step before purchasing a solar electric or wind power system to meet your electricity needs is to intelligently reduce those needs. Most homes can inexpensively reduce their electricity demands by 20 to 30% without ever having to make any adjustments in the lifestyles of the occupants. We provided you with many energy saving tips in this article, such as:
Replacing incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent ones.
Upgrading your older appliances with EnergyStar star ones that have a very low annual energy consumption rating.
Minimize the many hidden phantom (ghost) loads in your house.
Insulate your home well for colder seasons.
Creatively use vegetation to keep your home cool in the summer and maximize sunshine entering the house in the winter.
Use solar heating technologies (not to be confused with solar electric technologies) to cost effectively reduce how much your traditional air or water heating systems have to work.
There are literally hundreds of other little tricks and smart tweaks you can make to your home that will further reduce your electrical demands. Consider picking up a copy of the book ’10-Minute Energy-Saving Secrets – 250 Easy Ways to Save Big Bucks Year Round’ by Jerri Farris to learn of many of the other quick and easy ways to reduce your home’s consumption of energy.
2009 altEStore, Inc – ‘Making Renewable Do-able’
Do It Yourself Energy Efficiency Projects: Your Home’s Thermal Envelope (Part 1)

Many people struggling through the tough economy are not going to be able to take advantage of the 2009-10 Energy Efficiency Tax Credit simply because they cant afford new windows and doors, water heaters, or more insulation. However, there are a few things you can do around your home to air seal it to save money during the winter months and during the summer.
Because of the price and use of energy, architects and builders now design a home to be a thermal envelope. That is the sum total of the homes insulation systems including walls, ceilings, foundation, floors, windows, and doors. These work more effectively with good, tight fits that seal out the weather and air. By having a tight seal on your homes thermal envelope, the less energy you waste or lose by exchanging it too often with the air outside.
So, with this in mind, lets start at ground level and work our way up to seal your house.
Moisture Barrier
A moisture barrier (usually plastic sheeting) covers the earth beneath a structure to prevent moisture from infiltrating the structure from the ground. All-wooden structures last years longer if they are kept dry and out of contact with the ground. For a house, not only does it help prevent rot but it also helps keep the drier. Because moisture in the air holds heat, even during the most humid months, a moisture barrier will make your Texas home feel drier and cooler.
Most Texas homes are built on either a slab or have crawl spaces under them. Houses with slab foundations typically have concrete poured on top of a plastic moisture barrier. This limits the infiltration of moisture into the thermal envelope of the house. Homes with crawl spaces, meanwhile, feature a moisture barrier in their crawl spaces. Some older homes do not have one and these can be installed by the home owner very easily.
A moisture barrier is plastic sheeting, usually about 6-8 mils thick and is available at any hardware store, typically in sizes ranging from 25 25 feet to 100 100 feet. It also need not be one single piece of plastic. As long as the sheets overlap each other by about 6 inches or so, it will be effective.
To install, you will need to know the dimensions of your crawl space and buy enough plastic sheeting to cover the ground in that space. Simply cut the plastic sheeting to cover the earth from wall to wall, laying it flat. You can use either black or clear plastic, but I would use clear because black plastic would make your crawl space feel like a cramped version of Batmans lair.
You should notice the difference within 24 hours. If your house feels too dry, simply fold back some of the plastic sheeting to expose the earth underneath. Continue adjusting until your home feels the most comfortable to you.
As mentioned, moisture barriers limit the infiltration of moisture into the thermal envelope of the house. The house feels drier: It will be easier to cool in the summer and less likely to develop mold or contribute to wood rot in the winter.
Mudsill and Rim Joists
The next place to check out is the mudsill. The mudsill is the board that is bolted flat on to the top of the foundation wall. An example of one is a 28 board bolted onto the final course of cement blocks. It provides a bed to attach the flooring joists and banding boards for the first floor of the house. Depending on how well it is installed, it can let in a lot of cold air and moisture.
Places to look for gaps is where the mudsill is fastened to the foundation. A common building practice now is to put down a plastic foam gasket over the foundation before attaching the pressure treated lumber that will be the mudsill. In older homes, either a paper-backed cellulose material was put down or nothing was used. To find gaps, get as close as possible to the mudsill from the inside and look for daylight shining through between the mudsill and the foundation wall and feel for a draft of cool air.
If your foundation is made of cement blocks, look for the vertical joints between the blocks. When these blocks are put into place, the mortar between the blocks often slumps leaving thin mortar or none at all. Over time as the house settles, holes can appear. While these might be small holes that let through tiny amounts of air, if your home has 10 or 20 of them, youre letting in a lot of weather and insects. Seal every hole you find with silicon caulk or expanding foam.
Another place along the mudsill to look for is where the rim joists attach. The rim joist (sometimes called banding joist) is the piece of wood that closes off the end of the flooring joist or is the last floor joist underneath the exterior wall. The bottom edge is not necessarily an air-tight seal. In fact, I lived in one older house where there was a half-inch gap between the rim joist and mudsill. Now, while this seems small, the gap ran for the entire length of the house: 25 feet. It was the equivalent of leaving a 24 inch by 24 inch window open all the time. Some expandable foam quickly sealed this gap and there was a noticeable improvement in comfort and cost right away.
Windows
If you have double-hung wooden sash windows with storm windows that are drafty, there are several ways to make them more energy efficient.
Make sure the glazing on the glass panes of the sash windows is not cracked or crumbling. The glazing helps hold and seal the glass to the wooden window and thus blocks drafts and quiets rattling especially from traffic. It also lessens the likelihood that the glass will break if a pet or a child presses against it. Glazing is something of a skilled art. That being said, its not that hard to do. Re-glazing a window yourself can save you to 0 or more. All you need is glazing putty (), a putty knife (), some glaziers points ( for a box of 100) and some time.
First, remove any old, cracked, or crumbling glazing with a putty knife. Glazing putty dries to be very, very hard and will last decades. It can be loosened with a heat gun, but keep the gun moving or the heat will crack the glass.
When the old putty has been removed, remove all the old glaziers points. Now, lift out the pane and set it aside. Sand the channel where the pane fits on the wooden sash. Usually, I apply a thin bead of silicone caulk in this channel before replacing the glass. This helps to seat and seal the glass pane. This especially helps when working on multiple small panes (called lights) separated by thin or fragile wooden mullions (also called muntins). Next, insert new glaziers points. This is done by using the putty knife to press points into the wooden sash along the glass pane to keep it in place. Take your time so that you dont break the glass.
Glazing putty can be purchased in either a can or a tube with a shaped tip that fits in a caulking gun. However, it does take some practice to get just the right angle and right amount of putty on the glass. When using the tube mix, keep the 45 degree angled tip steadily against the glass and lay a bead of putty the length of bottom of the pane. If youre using the putty from the can, roll the putty into long snake (or rope) and place it along the edge of the pane and along the wood. Gently press it into position so that it forms a nice 45 degree angle with the putty knife. The putty is shaped this way so that water runs off the glass to the edge of the window sash instead of into the window pane channel where it can rot the wood.
The next thing to look for is if your windows close snugly. Both the top and bottom window have what is called a meeting rail. On the upper window, it is the bottom of the window and on the bottom window it is the top. These meeting rails are shaped so that they mesh together when they close. This helps seat and seal the window properly. Check to see if the bottom window runs firmly but not tightly along the window jamb as you close the window. If its too loose and wiggles back and forth, it probably wont seat very tightly when its closed. You can use a putty knife to pry out the window jambs and then re-position them to improve how tightly the window will close. You might try adding felt or self-adhesive foam weather stripping. Also make sure you clean out any debris from the window to ensure the window will seat and seal snugly.
As metal storm windows age, the harder they seem to close. This usually happens because of dirt and corrosion. Make sure the window tracks are clean and free of dirt and debris so the window runs smoothly.
Outside, check that the storm window frame is held tightly in place against the wooden window frame. Screws that hold this frame in place might be loose and might need to be replaced or moved to a new spot. Most drafts from storms windows come from where the storm window frame meets the wooden window frame. Once youre certain the storm window frame is secure, lay a bead of caulk into the seam where the metal storm window frame meets the wooden window frame. Typically, there are two slots cut into the bottom apron of the storm window frame. Do not seal these. These are weep holes that allow condensation to escape.
If you have modern, double glazed windows (windows with two panes of glass), one of the things to look out for is fogging between the panes. Double glazed windows are made by attaching a pane of glass with adhesive to either side of a half-inch wide aluminum frame either in a vacuum or a very dry environment. It is then a single unit and is installed into a standardized window frame. Fogging is a sign that the seal on the window unit has failed and water vapor has penetrated into the space between the panes. If the fogging is still present in summer, its a good guess that acids have also leeched in with the water vapor and have permanently etched the window glass. If the fogging disappears when the window warms, then its not too late to treat it. Examine the wood of the window for any discoloration from moisture. Look for peeling, flaking paint or soft, gray-colored wood. If you find some, sand it smooth and then seal it with an oil-based enamel or polyurethane. If the wood is very soft, you might try using an epoxy formulated to penetrate and preserve rotten wood. Be sure to mask the glass first with painters tape.
A builder installs a door or window with wedges called shims so that the window can float inside a rough opening in the framing. While this lets the door or window open and close freely as it expands and contracts during the year, it also means a lot of outside air can infiltrate your house by getting in around the window frame if it has not been insulated or if it has been damaged. During the summer, it usually isnt a noticeable problem. During the winter, though, if you see moisture or mildew there could be a problem with the window frame.
Look outside for damage to the siding and window frame. Look for holes or wet, rotten wood, or even a loose piece of siding. Its important to clean and seal problems like these quickly, especially if moisture has been getting inside your wall, because the damage will just worsen over time. Rotten or damaged siding can be replaced easily with new pieces from the hardware store. Rotten or damaged window sills should be completely removed and replaced and the inside of the wall inspected for mold, rot, and other damage. However, this is no small job and requires time and skills to complete. It might need the hand of a professional. For an immediate, short-term fix, clean out the rotten wood as best you can and fill the hole with fiberglass auto body putty. This will provide a hard, waterproof barrier against the weather. Be sure to contour and shape it so that it will not interfere with opening and closing the window.
If moisture or rain is getting into your window frame, check to see if any of your rain gutters run over head. Check to see if these are clogged. Also, consider installing drip edging along the top of your windows to help run water around and away from the windows and siding when it rains. After youve installed it, be sure to caulk it in place so moisture cant penetrate behind it.
A lot of folks consider it hideous to put over your windows but it will keep the wind out: clear plastic sheeting. This is probably the easiest temporary energy fix owners of older homes use to keep cold, damp winter weather out. There are two approaches: Apply the clear plastic sheeting to the outside of the window by stapling it to the wood window frame and then nailing lathe over the stapled edge to secure the plastic. Or apply the plastic sheeting to double-sided tape on the inside of the window frame (usually available in kits from the home center). To be sure, neither is an attractive solution. However, if you have an older home with double-hung windows in poor condition, this short-term fix does a lot for only and about 15 minutes of work. In fact, even if your windows close snugly, it might not be a bad idea for a north-facing window that doesnt have much of a view.
Energy Efficient Window Treatments: Its Curtains for You!
Curtains not only add style, color, and privacy to a room, they also act as an insulating blanket for one of the most thermally conductive parts of the house: the windows. Curtains are even more effective at sealing off a window when they have thermal backing. Thermal backing is usually foam because foam permits water vapor to move through the fabric rather than condensing on the cold side toward the window and causing moisture problems. An additional benefit to thermal curtains is that they help deaden noise from outside that is normally transmitted into the room by the window glass. In the summer, the curtains also block hot sun.
Thermal curtains can be made even more efficient by adding a valance with a top. Usually, window valances conceal the curtain hardware such as the rods and brackets. However, if the valance has a top cover, warm air that would normally circulate down between the cool glass and the back of the curtain is blocked. Valances can be made with plywood and then stained, painted, or covered in fabric.
Another option is a window quilt. These are blanket-like shade that roll down to cover the window. Some are held tightly in place by magnetic strips attached to both the quilt and the window frame.
Finally, one last accessory for the double hung window is the Window Worm. This is a fabric tube about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter and is as long as a window is wide. It is stuffed with quilting foam or cloth scraps and laid along where the top and bottom window sashes meet to help keep out drafts. Longer ones weighted with sand can also be made and placed across the foot of doors.